Unit of competency details

ELEMENT 

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA 

Elements describe the essential outcomes of a unit of competency.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element. Where bold italicised text is used, further information is detailed in the required skills and knowledge section and the range statement. Assessment of performance is to be consistent with the evidence guide.

1. Select suitable equipment for belay system.

1.1. Select a belay system  according to contextual issues  and to minimise environmental impact .

1.2. Identify and select equipment  according to relevant legislation  and organisational policies and procedures .

1.3. Select anchors  that meet the requirements of the climb and abilities of the participants .

1.4. Assess condition of the anchors , including performance under likely load .

1.5. Choose a belay device  that is suitable to the natural surface conditions  and belayer's ability.

1.6. Complete all necessary equipment safety checks , according to organisational policies and procedures, to ensure effective working order.

2. Set up belay system.

2.1. Rig multiple anchors, ensuring equalisation and considering direction of applied forces  in the even of a fall.

2.2. Tie knots  and rig ropes suitable for the type of belay system established.

2.3. Establish a belay from which the belayer is able to escape and safely perform a rescue.

2.4. Avoid or remove belay hazards , to maintain safety of belayer .

2.5. Determine the need for, and establish, back up belay systems.

This section describes the skills and knowledge required for this unit.

Required skills 

• problem-solving skills to select appropriate anchors and belay systems for the context and conditions of climbing activity
• rope handling and knot tying skills to rig ropes and anchors adequately and safely
• emergency response skills appropriate to the location to enable initial response to emergencies and personal health care.

Required knowledge 

• relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable safe conduct of all activities
• minimal impact climbing codes to ensure protection of the environment
• equipment types, characteristics and technology used to establish belays for multi pitch climbing on natural surfaces
• care and maintenance of equipment to ensure prolonged life span and safety requirements, as advised by the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations for equipment use
• belay and anchor systems appropriate for multi pitch natural climbing surfaces
• technical climbing and equipment knowledge to establish top and bottom belays
• types of knots, their advantages and disadvantages and their impact on roping activities
• emergency procedures, potential hazards and obstacles relevant to the location to ensure safety of self and others.

The evidence guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Overview of assessment 

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit 

Evidence of the following is essential:

• independently selects appropriate equipment and carries out safety checks to ensure effective working order
• uses discretion and judgement to determine belay system required for climbing in routine and non routine multi pitch contexts
• differentiates between the types of belay systems, anchors and knots and their suitability to different rigging situations
• determines the need for, and establishes, back up belay systems to ensure safety of self and other participants.

Context of and specific resources for assessment 

Assessment must ensure participation in multiple rigging activities to demonstrate competence and consistency of performance.

Assessment must also ensure access to:

• resources and information regarding climbing and belaying equipment
• suitable natural multi pitch climbing sites with fixed and natural anchors and varying qualities and features that allow participant to demonstrate rigging skills
• other climbing participants, to assist in belaying and rigging
• equipment such as anchors, harnesses, belay systems, belay devices, slings, ropes, karabiners and first aid equipment.

Method of assessment 

A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:

• oral or written questioning to assess knowledge of relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to ensure safe and appropriate use of all climbing equipment
• observation of safe participation and demonstration of setting up belay systems suitable to different contexts and participants
• observation of dealing with contingencies, such as equipment failure
• third-party reports from a supervisor detailing performance.

Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:

• SISOVTR402A Perform complex vertical rescues
• SISOCLN406A Apply multi pitch lead climbing skills on natural surfaces.

The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.

Belay system  may include:

• top belay
• bottom belay

Contextual issues  may include:

• weather conditions, including times
• season
• transport
• location
• trip distance and duration
• group objectives
• group size.

Environmental impact  may include:

• rock dislodgement
• compacting of soil
• damage to flora and fauna.

Equipment  may include:

• ropes and cord
• tape and slings
• karabiners
• nuts
• Spring loaded caming devices (SLCDs)
• Hexes
• belay devices.
• Nut tool

Relevant legislation  may include:

• occupational health and safety
• permits or permission for access
• environmental regulations.

Organisational policies and procedures  may include:

• operating procedures and company or enterprise policies
• occupational health and safety
• use and maintenance of equipment
• emergency procedures
• code of ethics.

Anchors  may include:

• natural
• fixed
• artificial.

Participants  may include:

• experienced
• inexperienced
• adults
• children
• tourists, club members, clients, school or youth groups.

Condition of the anchors  may include:

• age
• location
• wear
• decay
• corrosion
• weathering
• environmental stress
• insect damage.

Likely load  may include:

• group size
• set up
• type of climb conducted
• climber ability
• technique
• possible forces generated during a fall.

Belay device  may include:

• plate devices
• auto-locking devices
• tubular devices
• hitch i.e. Munter (Italian hitch).

Natural surface conditions  may include:

• cliffs
• boulder
• rock type.

Safety checks  may include:

• A - anchors - secure and suitable to application
• B - buckles - locked as per manufacturers recommendations
• C - connectors - locked, secured and orientated
• D - devices - threaded correctly and secured
• E - everything else including end of rope knots, friction hitches, belayer ready, helmet chin strap, clothing, jewellery and hair secured
• F - friend - cross check.

Applied forces  may include:

• upward
• downward.

Knots  may include:

• Figure 8- rethread, on bight and in line
• bowline
• alpine butterfly
• tape or water knot
• clove hitch.

Hazards  may include:

• temperature extremes
• slippery or unstable terrain
• dangerous animals and insects
• stinging trees and nettles
• dense vegetation
• group management hazards.

Safety of belayer  may include:

• attachment to anchor or alternate safety system
• positioning out of direct line of equipment fall
• minimising movement of the belayer in the event of a fall.